This may seem like a strange image in a post about looking up. But it tells a story, a story of the 1966 flood that devastated Florence, destroying or damaging millions of books and manuscripts and countless works of art.
Look up to the highest label on the wall. That is the high water mark, about 22 ft., on November 4, 1966. Lower sections of buildings and damaged art works are still undergoing restoration.
The frescoes in the chancel above the high altar and its vaulte dome are beautiful.
The Baroncelli Chapel, by Taddeo Gaddi, shows scenes from the life of Mary. The three following photos show details from the frescoes.
Transept and side chapels have ceiling frescoes depicting the lives of the saints and the four evangelists.
The central dome of the Pazzi Chapel and its chancel dome. Designed by Brunelleschi but not finished until after his death, (1443-1478), the chapel is one of the earliest Florentine Renaissance structures.
The giant crucifix wooden by Cimabue (c. 1265) was heavily damaged in the flood. Over 60 percent of the paint was lost. Even after extensive restoration, damage is still visible. It is considered one of greatest losses from the flood. It now hangs high in the sacristy.
Construction of the Basilica began in 1294. It is the 3rd largest church in the world.
The ornate polychrome marble facade, like that of Florence’s more famous Duomo, was actually added in the 19th century.
Prior to the new facade, the front of the Basilica would have looked like the adjacent cloister and tower. The rest of the building remains the reddish limestone. The Duomo, on the other hand, was totally sheathed in marble.
The Italian architect Niccolo Matas from Ancona designed the Neo-Gothic facade between 1857-1863.
Because Matas was Jewish, he could not be buried in Santa Croce. The Basilica is the burial place of many prominent Italian artists, writers, and thinkers and is called the Temple of Italian Glories. After Matas’ death, his body was moved and reburied under the porch of the Basilica.
But Matas left his mark on Santa Croce. He worked a prominent Star of David into the design. While both Jewish and Christian symbol, it’s prominence is meaningful
He is buried beneath his star, just outside the center door.
Founded in the 3rd century BCE by the Carthaginians and later controlled by the Berbers (Amazigh), the fortified city of Volubilis became an important Roman outpost in the 1st century CE. Located near Meknes, between Fes and Rabat, it was the most distant North African outpost in the empire. The city remained a Roman stronghold until 285, when it was defeated by local tribes. It was inhabited through the 11th century. City structures remained substantially intact until 1755, when the earthquake that destroyed Lisbon, Portugal caused the collapse of Volubilis and other sites in North Africa. The city has been partially excavated and some reconstruction has been undertaken.
The Tingis Gate, northern-eastern entrance to Volubilis,168/169 AD. Volubilis had eight monumental gates. Notice the stork’s nest on the column. They are everywhere in Morocco.
Map of the Roman Empire. Volubilis is on the left side in Mauretania Tingitana. It is the largest and best-preserved Roman ruins in Morocco. It became a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in 1997.
The DecumanusMaximus, the east-west main street in the Roman expansion of the city. The Arch of Caracalla, heavily restored in the 1960s, is at the far end. The rich, fertile lands surrounding Volubilis produced olive oil and grains. A panoramic view of some of the townhouses in the upscale area of the city. The wealthy residents had large peristyle houses, many with mosaic floors and private baths. Volubilis was a thriving city and an administrative center for the Roman Empire.
Volubilis is known for its well preserved, though in some cases heavily restored, mosaic floors found in the houses of the wealthy classes and in public and private baths. The subjects are generally mythological characters and stories, fantastic beasts or nature. I enhanced the colors in a couple of the photos below to really capture the image. In situ, the mosaics appear duller due to bright sun and deterioration due to the elements. The originals would have appeared brighter, like this first image.
House of VenusHouse of Dionysus and the Four SeasonsHouse of Orpheus floor, one of the largest mosaicsDolphin mosaic floor in the private baths of the House of Orpheus. Detail from House of Orpheus mosaicA section of a house.Fertile fields of Morocco’s Jebel Zerhoun Plain supported Volubilis and supplied olive oil and wheat to much of the empire. The Arch of Caracalla. The extensive reconstruction in the 1960s has been questioned. The Capitoline Temple dedicated to Juno, Jupiter and Minerva, c. 218 CE.The Basilica. Originally a judicial and administrative hall, it was later used as a church. Early 3rd century CE.After the city was abandoned and following the earthquake, stone and architectural elements were pillaged for buildings in other cities, such as nearby Meknes. The red bricks show areas of restoration or reconstruction.
One of my goals on this trip was to see if I could be happy using a cell phone camera when I traveled rather than hauling around my DSLR and a lens or two. I purchased a Samsung S22 Ultra and for the most part shot all my photos with it. Overall, I am pleased with the results though, even with four optical lenses on the phone, I miss the optical zoom on my main DSLR lens. The phone camera was especially handy when taking photos from a moving bus.
Assilah is on Morocco’s Atlantic coast north of Rabat. It has an arty vibe and holds an important annual arts and cultural festival in its medina. Originally settled by the Phoenicians, Assilah was an important Arabic city that was later conquered by Portugal. In the 18th and 19th centuries it was a pirate stronghold. From 1912-1956, it was part of Spanish Morocco.
15th century walls built by the Portuguese surround the 12th century medina.
Looking out from the promenade along the ocean with Portuguese battlements along the beach
Sculpture from the cultural festival
White-washed buildings with touches of green or blue, typical Andalusian style in Morocco
Privacy windows in t b e narrow streets of the medina so woman could chat
Mural from festival
The coast line of the now trendy location.
Section of a mural
An all seafood lunch. I really don’t like my food to stare at me.
In the market
School sign in Arabic, French, and Berber (Amazigh).
The New 3 Rs: Retire, Recharge, Reconnect 